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Post by racingfather on May 18, 2012 22:31:41 GMT -5
We're having a problem with the chain, it is binding up during a race. If we adjust it as recommended it comes of the track very stiff and even causing the wheels to drag. spraying WD40 on the chain and spinning the wheels gets the chain to free up some what. so now we leave the chain very loose it still binds up but doesn't cause the wheels to drag as before. But with it being so loose we're afraid that it might come off. We've checked and rechecked alignment, used different lubs, different chain manufactures ie; diamond,tusbaki, ect. all with the same results. any suggestions?
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Post by gennemo on May 19, 2012 4:17:24 GMT -5
Is your driver riding the brakes, while on the gas?. best way to alighn is take off chain gaurd, watch chain from top position gear so that chain is riding in middle when spinning.
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Post by tbracing on May 19, 2012 7:34:31 GMT -5
Contact SPL get chain lube from them use it on micro chain is cold when you come in 4th year on chain 610-252-2024 try it
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Post by hammerdownpower on May 19, 2012 9:09:59 GMT -5
How often are you lubing it? How dusty is the track? Are you seeing this with new chains or just re-lubed old ones?
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Post by racingfather on May 19, 2012 21:33:51 GMT -5
This has happened to all the chain we've used. new or used . we've taken bound up chain soaked it in kero, brake fluid, carb cleaner, etc. got it clean, blew it out with air and freed it up by hitting it on the bench and spraying it with WD-40 or other penetrating oil. lubed it at the track with anything that others suggested. the only thing we haven't tried is something that I just read and that being a graphite spray lub that after being sprayed on becomes dry and not leaving anything for the dirt to stick to. This sounds very logical to me Thoughts - Comments?
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Post by tbracing on May 19, 2012 23:35:07 GMT -5
Gave you a # to call after 25 laps in micro tonight chain was cold no dirt stuck to it.
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zx1000
Junior Slingshot
Posts: 2
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Post by zx1000 on May 20, 2012 3:05:04 GMT -5
dont reuse a chain if its already been bound and tight.wd-40 isnt really the best thing to use either. make sure the hub is lined up and the chain doesnt ride up on the gear. if it does drill out the holes to like 5/16 at the most and you can grind the inner part and where the halves meet to give you more adjustabilty. use a real chain lube like misty to lube it at the track,when done racing take it off clean it a soak it in lucas oil chain lube or at least some motor oil.
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Post by boxracer07 on May 22, 2012 9:37:40 GMT -5
use DID 40 chain , i also used JAX chain lube, it was the best i found. Use a true fitting gear and a newer drive gear. Your chain is tightening up because its getting hot and the links spread out tightening against each other. Use Azusa gears or gears from S&S speadway they are very good true running gears and make sure both your ends meet together tight when fitting a true aligned gear on the hub. You should NEVER drill out the holes on a very good quality made gear. If you have to drill out your mounting holes you need to adjust your gear hub. When you get your new gear take a grinder and make the teeth coned shape at the top but not pointed. it will help the chain lay down on the gear instead of the gear hitting the chain and spreading your links. make sure your engine bolts are tight and hub bolts, if the engine is twisting you will have problems. I use to replace my chain every 2 races, my engine drive gear every 5 races. Your chain tension should be 1/2 to 1" play checked after every time out. If everything is set right and you use the JAX lube your chain will stay nice with no binds and your car will be fast.
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